Item 1 (forward wall port).

A window needs to be added here. See WINDOW section.

Add at deck lamp between the old window and the new one.

Item 2 (forward wall starboard).

Add a lamp between the starboard corner and the first window.

Item 1 (crane lamps).

A deck lamp needs to be added to either side of the base of each crane. See CRANES section for details.

Item 2 (docking bridge).

Lamps need to be added along the underside of the docking bridge. Ken Marschall dusk or night paintings will give you an idea of where to add them. Check Illustrated History for an example. We do not know of any day time photos that show these lamps either on the Titanic or the Olympic.

Item 3 (flagstaff).

On the flagstaff you need to add a small lamp about 6mm up from the planking on the bow side.

Item 4 (stern running light).

Just behind the flagstaff in the center of the stern a deck lamp was attached to the railings which faced aft for other ships to see from a distance. See the "sea trials" photographs found in Legacy or Illustrated History.

Step 1 (preparing the lamp locations).

Using a 0.65mm bit and cordless drill bore out all existing decklamp markings molded onto the model EXCEPT the ones under DECKLAMPS THAT NEED ALTERING listed above. Sand these lamps off and mark the correct locations with a pencil and then bore those holes.

Step 2 (pulling the clear sprue).

Use the same method of sprue pulling described in the MODELING TECHNIQUES section but use the CLEAR sprue from the skylight and dome tree. The result, if done properly, should be long lengths of clear sprue rod. Pull the sprue thinly enough so that the rod fits snugly into the bored holes. Not too thick or they won't fit in the holes nor so thin they fall through.

Step 3 (assembling the lamp lenses).

After the clear sprue has been pulled to the desired diameter cut them off with a NEW hobby knife blade. A dull one tends to fracture or shatter the clear sprue whereas a new one gave us a clean edge and clear lenses.

Cut the clear sprue into lengths of around 1 to 1.5mm in length. Make more than enough in case you lose a few.

Now add a dab of model glue (NOT CA!) to the bored out hole with the tip of the GluSquito then while holding the clear pulled sprue lens, pushed it into the hole about 1/3 of the way. Then with the end of a wooden toothpick push the clear lens in further so only the last 1/3 stuck out from the deckhouse wall (about 0.3mm).

Now when the light caught the clear lens you could tell something with a glass look was there.

Step 1 (making the cover shades).

When you look at the hand rail panels of the spare Lusitania railings you will see that not all the rails are of equal height. The gluing rail and the hand rail are thicker. It is with the hand rail section that we made our decklamp reflective covers.

Remember again that not all the decklamps had this reflective cover, only a few.

Taking a few panels from spare GMM Lusitania railing sections we trimmed off the handrail portion along the top with a sharp hobby knife. Once done this was then trimmed into lengths of around 2.5mm each.

Step 2 (shaping the covers).

Being rather small these are not the easiest things to work with but it is possible. As that the lamp lenses were drilled using the 0.65mm drill bit, bend each brass strip over the shank of the drill bit (the section that sits inside the drill chuck). Do not press too hard or you can break the drill bit! Or you can use a nail of similar diameter.

Step 3 (gluing the shades on the deckhouses).

To place the shades on the lamps it is easier to lay the model on its side so the shade doesn't slide down the wall.

Create a small puddle of CA glue on your gluing block. Dip the end of a small pulled sprue length into the glue puddle and then apply it to the deckhouse wall just forward of the lamp lens. Do not get it on the lens or the clear pip will fog up. With the glue in place grab the brass shade with the tweezers and place it on the deckhouse wall. If it doesn't land just right use the tip of your hobby knife to move the shade so it wraps around the one half of the clear pip, like a half moon not sitting too far overhead or underneath. You want it to look like a letter 'C' around the forward side of an `O'. Work fast before the CA glue sets.

Do one side of the model before flipping the ship over to repeat the process.

Step 4 (painting the reflective shades).

When you have added all the reflective decklamp shades required, paint each one flat white to match the deckhouse walls. Be very careful not to get the white paint on the clear pip lens right next to it. Take your time.

Now when you view your model the 3 dimensional decklamps and the reflective light covers really adds a sense of realism to the model. In our opinion its worth the effort.

These were relatively simple.

Take a square of sheet plastic about 15mm x 15mm and using a common pin poke 5 small holes in it 4mm in from the edge. Next glue five small flared lenses (see Method 2 above) one per hole with a tiny bead of regular model glue. When the lenses have set use the tip of your hobby knife to trim around each fixture so the back plate is not much larger than the lens itself (approx. 2mm x 2mm).

After the five fixtures have been trimmed and separated from each other, apply CA glue to the rail area where the decklamp plate is to go. Pace the decklamp on the rail making sure it sits square between the rails. After you have completed all five lamps, conduits will need to be added to their backsides as discussed in the CONDUIT segment.