Step 1 (front well deck high roller fairleads).

In the forward well deck flanking the central `mushroom' vent between the #2 and #3 hatches were high roller fairleads. These sat out from the mushroom vent approx. level with the outboard edges of the hatches.

To make them use the parts tabs from the crane booms. After you trim the crane boom(s) off, the parts holder will look like a sprue pole with a pair of tiny `ears' protruding. This is similar to what the fairlead looked like and at this scale and substitutes well enough for them as seen in the Ken Marschall painting on page 44 in Exploring The Titanic.

Make them about 4mm tall. Measure 4mm down the sprue tab from the tip with the "ears", mark and cut the tab at the 4mm point. Make two of these.

Step 2 (aft well deck low roller fairleads).

The aft well deck fairleads were low rollers. Using plastic stock of around 3mm diameter cut two lengths at 2mm in height. You can either drill a small central hole in the top of these or use the point of a drawing compass and poke a hole in.

Cut the head off of two common pins leaving as small a section of the shank as you can. Tiny wire cutters should allow you to cut close to the bottom of the pin head as possible.

Once cut apply CA glue to the top of these low rollers and place the pin heads into each hole. When dry paint all the rollers flat black and then attach them to the deck. These flanked the mushroom vent that sat in front of #6 hatch.

See the Olympic well deck photo during her fitting out Ken Marschall's update cutaway painting in Inside The Titanic.

Step 3 (customizing the bow and poop deck fairleads).

It appears that the fairleads on the Poop Deck and Forecastle may have had a different colored metal ring on the rollers.

This can be duplicated on the model with a fine brush or end of a toothpick dipped in paint. Check out page 154 in Robert Ballard's Discovery Of The Titanic. They look grayish in the photo so this might be tarnished metal (like brass).

We painted our fairleads black and then dabbed a bit of military brown on them and the hull to simulate rust and mud. See Titanic photos such as the starboard shots by Mr. Beken.